This is kind of fascinating. The weight of the tip of your arrow has a lot to do with how much your arrow bends. Imagine it like this: you're holding one of those styrofoam pool noodles, and you use it to push over a paper cup that's half-full of water. The cup would fall over, right? Now imagine you're using that same pool noodle, but this time you're trying to push a bowling ball.
That bowling ball isn't going anywhere, and your pool noodle is going to bend. The same concept goes for the point on your arrow. This is actually a really important part of an arrow purchase—especially if you're a hunter and you've put a heavy broadhead on the end of your arrow—and we discuss it further in one of the sections below.
The Material and Size of the Arrow. We talk about this more in the "Materials" section, so we won't get into it here, but the material that the arrow is made of—wood, aluminum, or carbon—affects the spine of the arrow. Stiffer arrows are needed on compound bows that have more aggressive cams, because aggressive cams put a lot of force on an arrow. You need to shot arrows that have the same spine. This is very important—it doesn't matter how good you are, and how much you've mastered your form—if the spines on your arrows are not identical, you will not get good groupings.
Variation in spine affects your performance—even when you're using the same arrows. In other words, you can buy the same brand of arrows with the same spine, but because no two arrows are exactly similar, there will be slight variations between arrows, and that can affect your performance. Arrow manufacturers have done a good job in minimizing deviations, but they still exist. As a general rule of thumb, if a variety of arrow is very expensive, it's less likely to have variations arrow to arrow.
Arrows lose their spine over time. After taking hundreds of shots, the integrity of the spine is damaged a bit. If you spend time with a competitive archer, you'll notice that they replace their arrows frequently. As mentioned, it's vitally important to shoot arrows with identical spine, so it's something to keep in mind as the months pass.
In most cases, it's better to have an arrow that's a little too stiff than an arrow that's a little too weak, and arrow manufacturers usually recommend arrows that are liiiiiiittle stiff more on that later. Generally speaking, an arrow that's a little too stiff will favor the left, and an arrow that's a little weak will favor the right.
If you're seeing a lot of left-right variations in your groupings that is, if you shoot a bunch of arrows and they're all on the same horizontal plane, but they're scattered left to right , that may be the result of variations in the spines of your arrows. Length This is one of the first things you need to think about when selecting an arrow: length.
If you don't have a draw length indicator, here's a rough estimate on how to determine your draw length: Put your arms out, side to side, and have someone measure your wingspan if you're alone, you can stand up next to a wall, put one hand out and mark a small pencil mark on the wall, then reach all the way out with your other hand, and make a small mark on the outside of your other hand.
There are two notes to keep in mind in regard to arrow length:. Some arrow shafts you buy are shipped to you at a much longer length than you need, and you'll need to have them professionally cut to an appropriate length by someone at a pro shop or you can cut them yourself.
In other words, if you are just ordering arrow shafts, they may arrive to you at 32 inches long, and you'll need to cut them to be 30 inches long or whatever length you need. If you're using a clicker, your arrow must be short enough so that the arrow head clears the clicker at full draw.
Clickers are kind of an advanced tool, so if you're a beginner, they're not something you need to worry about. Diameter The diameter of an arrow is an important part of purchasing an arrow, and arrows are sold in a wide array of diameters. Target archers usually want an arrow with a thicker diameter, because a thicker arrow is more likely to connect with the lines on a target and get higher scores. That goes for archers who are aiming at regular round targets, but also 3-D archers who are shooting at replicas of game, such as deer, elk, etc.
Most competitions have very strict rules about how thick any arrow can be, so if you want to get involved in target archery, make sure you're not cheating by using an arrow that's above the allowed diameter. Outdoor archers—that is, hunters or target archers who are shooting outdoors—usually go for thinner arrows. Thinner arrows are less affected by wind because there's less surface area on the arrow, AND, for hunters, thin arrows more effectively penetrate game.
Weight The weight of an arrow is another important measurement. The diameter of the arrow—that is, how wide the arrow is around; The thickness of the walls of the arrow—that is, if you sawed the arrow in half and looked at it, the thickness of the material that makes up the walls of the arrow; and The materials of the arrow—that is, wood vs.
Tip Last but not least, the weight of the tip. Wood The original arrow! Aluminum These are fantastic for beginners, but they're also used by more experienced archers.
Carbon Carbon arrows are very stiff, which is a great match for heavier bows—particularly, heavier compound bows used for hunting. How to Read Arrow Measurements When you go to buy an arrow, arrow manufacturers will label the arrows with super-confusing numbers.
Here are a few examples: Arrow 1: Arrow 2: Arrow 3: Those numbers are kind of baffling. Here's how it plays out: Measurements for Wood Arrows Wooden arrows are usually sold with four-digit numbers next to them. Measurements for Aluminum Arrows This measurement is somewhat similar to the measurement for wooden arrows, but it's a little different. Isn't that easy? No, no it's not.
But it's how they do things! Measurements for Carbon Arrows Believe it or not, carbon arrows are actually measured differently by different arrow manufacturers.
Now What? So now you know what those measurements mean, but what size arrow is right for you? Here's the first way: Use An Arrow Chart Arrow manufacturers usually have an arrow chart on their website. Here's a made-up example of an arrow chart you might find:. You can also Go to An Online Retailer You don't need to buy directly from an arrow manufacturer; there are tons of big-name online stores that deliver straight to your home, and very often, it's a lot easier to buy from these online stores than it is to buy from the archery company.
And, finally Go to a Pro Shop You can always go to a pro shop or archery store and ask specific questions to a trained professional. Buying Guide: Tips and Considerations Here are some "Buying Guide"-style tips that we couldn't figure out how to add to the other sections:. Start out with cheap arrows. Arrows are tools that won't last forever—they get dinged up, the fletchings fall apart, they bend, and so on. When you're new to archery, there's no reason to break the bank.
Buy cheap at first and then buy expensive ones once you get good. Some arrows have vanes that aren't glued on straight—they taper left or taper right. That's actually not a mistake—that's what's called a "helical configuration. Pretty cool! Determine the poundage I would like to shoot. For me, this is always the max poundage the bow limbs allow. Step 2. Attempt to narrow down the arrow manufacturer by checking out website information on new products, calling manufacturers and visiting trade shows.
Step 3. After selecting an arrow brand, determine what you are looking for in terms of arrow performance. Do you want a light and fast arrow or a heavy and hard-hitting arrow? Make your decision based on the animals you pursue — light and fast for whitetails or heavy and hard-hitting for mule deer and elk. I try to build an arrow that is slightly on the heavy side and reaches that fps. Step 4. Determine your draw length, arrow length, bow poundage and desired point weight.
Use these rough numbers as a starting point when selecting your arrows. All of this can and will change once you start tuning your bow and arrows. Step 5. Enter this information into an archery software program such as The Archery Program or Archers Advantage. In my opinion this is the most important step in determining the proper spine arrow. It is here where you can really fine tune your numbers — this software will tell you if your arrow is too weak or too stiff based on your draw weight, arrow length and point weight.
Step 6. If you are unhappy with your results, select another arrow shaft and see how it compares. This will give you a great representation on the spine of arrow you need. Another issue to consider is shaft diameter. The smaller diameter was developed for better penetration on game and less wind drift on longer shots.
Certain spines and sizes may only be available in specific diameters such as wood and aluminum shafts. Make sure to size field points and broadheads to the shaft. In some cases the heads can be slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft but they should never be under-sized, as smaller heads will decrease penetration, slightly diminish accuracy, or even damage the shaft in a target.
Nothing can have a bigger impact on your shooting accuracy than the arrow spine. Spine not spline is the static measurement of deflection of a shaft. Basically, it is how much the shaft bends. Be sure to use a test kit or at least a spine selection chart when choosing your arrow spine. Actually shooting arrows and tuning them is the best method for pairing the correct spine with your bow and you. When selecting the correct arrow length it is recommended you have an arrow at least one 1 inch longer than your draw length.
Use the arrow length as a tuning feature also. The longer an arrow is, the weaker the spine will be. Cost may be the biggest factor when it comes to the look of an arrow. Wood arrows can be stained before being sealed. Fiberglass is limited mostly to solid colors like black. Carbon and Aluminum arrows have the most options and always seem to be changing from year to year.
The least expensive is normally a black matte finish. Growing in popularity on the market are finishes in different camouflages, wood grain patterns, carbon weave, and a mix of any of the above.
If you are willing to pay a little more for a look to fit your style, you should have no problems finding the right shaft for you. In conclusion, choosing the right arrows can make a big difference in your shooting. Be sure to take the time to find the right arrow for your needs.
If you have questions or need advice, please call the 3Rivers Archery tech crew. The Longbow and Recurve Experts are happy to help. Easton are the world leaders in competition arrow making. It also is a guide to the stiffness needed to get your arrows to fly from your bow even for non Easton Arrows. This can be done by looking at the range of 'Spine' number for the arrow most likely to suit your bow and arrow length.
Spine is a numerical stiffness measure which is applicable to all arrows. For Wooden Arrows there is a different chart on the pages for the Wooden Arrows but the principle is the same.
Example: You have a recurve bow with a weight of pull of 32 lbs at your arrow length of 26". In this case Box T2. The T2 Box lists all the arrow types for you to choose from. If for example you want a good aluminium arrow like Platinum xx75, then the 75 alloy arrow size is shown as for this T2 Box.
So is the arrow size you need. You can choose any of the 75 Alloy arrows and they will suit your bow weight and arrow length. You can also see the size of arrow in other arrow types. If you wanted Carbon arrows, in the same T2 Box there are the sizes for each of the carbon arrow types that will suit your needs and be the equivalent to the 75 Alloy arrow. If you want further guidance please give us a call. Compound Target Bows. Archery Bow Sets. Finger Tabs. Release Aids. Thumb Rings.
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